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Beyond QueenstownGuest post by Jennifer Branje | Southproud.co.nz

While Queenstown remains one of New Zealand’s premiere destinations, travellers are often unaware of the majesty that beckons at the Head of the Lake.

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Undeservedly, the road to Glenorchy is often labelled as difficult and scary. Neither are true.
Sure, it’s windy, undulating and narrow in two short spots, but once you have arrived at Bennett’s Bluff you’ll wonder what all the fuss was about.
Many years ago, the steam ship TSS Earnslaw was among the commercial steam ship links to Glenorchy. She ferried passengers, livestock and goods to remote stations in the district. In 1962, the road to Glenorchy opened, and the TSS Earnslaw ceased its service to Glenorchy. She now takes excited passengers on a trip to Walter Peak Station from Queenstown’s Steamer Wharf.
In the late 1800’s, William Rees acquired a leasehold of all the land at the head of the lake. Requiring shepherds and other labourers, Glenorchy was soon settled. Gold miners followed seeking their fortunes at Precipice Creek and Buckler Burn and the tiny town of Glenorchy was born.
Glenorchy itself is a long way from a luxury alpine village. Its farming roots make it an eclectic mix of sought after real estate and rural holdings. Predominantly beef and sheep country, large stations now also raise deer which can been seen as you drive through the district. Old corrugated iron buildings dot the landscape and remind you that this is still a working community. With the towering Richardson Ranges on one side and the Humboldt’s on the other, this landscape has been well coveted by many an artist and photographer. Glacial waters gush over rocky braided riverbeds and Mt Earnslaw presides with grand presence.
The little township offers a lot.  Café’s, galleries and other accommodation options are spread out throughout the town. Luxury lodges are available for the affluent and local helicopter services offer an easy transport option for those short on time or wanting a scenic flight.
Recently opened, Camp Glenorchy, part of The Headwaters, offers exceptional accommodation options for the lone traveller or groups. It’s an outstanding complex built to be totally self-sufficient. A rooftop solar farm harnesses energy required to power the camp. Small wetlands filter waste water and internal spaces are temperate with passive heating. Several communal spaces encourage a sharing experience for those who stay. Buildings are made from reused timbers, natural stone and recycled materials. Every aspect of Camp Glenorchy is a collision of spirit. The huge beams refurbished as rafters were crafted by the hands of many. Every slab of timber, sheet of iron and piece of crockery tells a story. There is a feeling of understanding, of being part of the beautiful surrounds the moment you walk in the door. Whether you’re eco conscious or not, Camp Glenorchy is a fine example of how we can and should, work with nature to preserve our environment. Fair warning - it’s a place you just won’t want to leave. Neighbouring Mrs Woolly’s Camp Ground has non-powered sites for travellers providing bathroom and kitchen facilities and some very cool glamping tents. These are kitted out with solid floors, comfy queen beds, quality linen and bedding. Mrs Woolly’s General Store offers a great range of gifts, artworks, incidental items and fresh foods. They’ll even fill your thermos with hot water for a cuppa on your travels.
At the end of Oban Street is the Glenorchy Walkway. Well-formed tracks make this walk very accessible. Bellbirds, Tui and wading birds greet those on the track with melodic tunes. The views are sublime and an appreciation for this wild, unruly landscape sets in.
On the waterfront stands the iconic boat shed. It’s a favourite photo op for tourists with the Humboldt’s as a natural backdrop. Venture onto the wharf for even better views. If you’re a real shutterbug why not take a tour with Paradise Pictures. Laurence is an expert in his craft and will take you around the district to some outstanding locations. He’ll teach you to get the best shots with whatever camera you have. It’s a wonderful way to see the area and capture the best images.
Now, go further.
Glenorchy is the gateway to Paradise, literally. The Paradise Valley boasts scenery captured in Lord of The Rings, The Chronicles of Narnia and The Hobbit. It’s the real Middle Earth. Prior to taking the road to Paradise, you can turn left and drive around the head of Lake Wakatipu to the tiny settlement of Kinloch. There is a DOC camp there and waking on the lake edge to see the splendid snow-capped mountains is a rejuvenating experience. The road is a little narrow and unsealed so take your time. It’s totally worth the effort!
While many head for Queenstown and make Glenorchy a side attraction, we suggest you reverse that trend. Make the Head of The Lake your base to explore the Wakatipu Basin. It’s an uncongested, utterly stunning destination where you are completely cradled in the arms of Mother Nature.

 

 

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