South Island | New Zealand | West Coast Wilderness

The West Coast offers a spectacular trip into some of New Zealand's most unruly and beautiful landscapes. 

State Highway 6 from Lake Hawea to Greymouth offers the very best of New Zealand’s wilderness, excellent walks, wildlife and astounding natural beauty.

In the early 2000’s, New Zealand was still realising its potential as a tourism destination. There were no signs to alert motorists of a great photo op, or safe places specifically designated to park and gawk. Sometimes you’d come around a hairy bend and there, smack bang in the middle of the road, would be a parked car. The occupants would often be MIA, down a hill or up the road, shutter bugging like mad without a care in the world. I’m glad to say, times have changed and we now accommodate those who appreciate every piece of our natural beauty and want to explore.

Fully intending to check out as many walks as physically possible, I left Lake Hawea relatively early. I didn’t get far before my first stop at Waterfall Creek. I don’t know what it is about the sight and sound of gushing water that excites me. Perhaps my new-found appreciation for nature and environment. Waterfall Creek was not in the least spectacular.

I parked the car and walked back to the bridge, camera in hand. While the volume of water exuding from the top seemed like a trickle through a tiny crack, it soon splayed into a wonderous veil. The flat rocks at the bottom were brought to life as crystal-clear water ran over them, tiny droplets sparkling like diamonds in the morning sun. Native trees rooted in miniscule cracks in the rocks made shadows resembling goblins and witches.  

As I headed up the road toward Makarora familiarity set in. Massive river beds tumbled down the landscape scarred out by huge boulders and slips of schist. Early morning mist cloaked the beech forests as Kereru and other tiny birds foraged in the treetops. Occasional glimpses of Mt Aspiring with her ethereal white caps appeared out of nowhere.  A bizarre thought to climb her is soon dismissed by memories of the inexperienced and unprepared who had the same idea but fell victim to her alluring beauty.  

The road to Haast is like driving on a gymnast’s ribbon.  Long sweeping motions suddenly switch into frantic zig zags then even out to a gentle wave in the breeze. It’s a trip that requires patience and deliberation. Thankfully, there are many places to stop, take a walk, and refresh.

DOC provide many well maintained, family friendly walks that enable relatively easy access to beautiful clear rivers, naturally formed pools and majestic waterfalls.  Bouncy suspension bridges hang high over rocky riverbeds affording awesome photo ops.  While crossing the bridge to the Blue Pools the water was so clear trout could be easily seen in the river below. Tiny Grey Warblers flitted up tree trunks along the track like little mice with wings, their high pitch song akin to the tinkling of a trinket box. The Tui chimed in with her hollow call resounding throughout the bush. Nature in all its glory.

It was heart-warming to see the pleasure and acknowledgement of this awe-inspiring place on the faces of our guests. The young and not so young crouched on the edge of tracks, trying to be still as the wee birds came to inspect. High powered lenses zoomed in to capture amazing moments in time.

It wasn’t long until I crossed the ‘clickety clack’ bridge over the Gates of Haast. Below, water thundered over house sized boulders with unstoppable force.  It was a photo opportunity not to be missed. Massive walls of stone guide the river. It’s a natural amphitheatre filled with the booming acoustics of wild water.  

I left State Highway 6 at Haast and headed for Jackson Bay.  It’s a road to nowhere really. You get to the end then turn around and head back again. But boy, it’s worth it. The drive is about 40 kilometres and takes 40 minutes. If you haven’t already, now’s the time to smother yourself in insect repellent. I mean SMOTHER! The sandflies at Jackson Bay are utter mongrels! They’ll eat you alive given half the chance and you’ll spend all your time slapping yourself silly to get rid of the little blighters.  Be prepared, use repellent.  When you cross the Arawhata River and take in the mystical vistas beyond, sandflies will be the last thing on your mind.

Across the Arawhata Bridge the road forks. Hang left (not suitable for campervans) and head up to Cascade. It’s an absolute wilderness with a crystal-clear river set deep in native bush.

Before leaving Jackson Bay, I stopped in at the Arawhata Pioneer Cemetery. Mossy stones mark hundred-year-old graves here and it’s the final resting place of Burmeister, founder of Jackson. History tells us that many who settled in the Haast District did so because they were too poor to leave. West Coasters are known for their hardy, no nonsense approach.  They are accustomed to their environment and the challenges it poses. They are the offspring of some of the toughest, self-reliant folk that came to these shores and their stories and family histories live on in tales of trepidation and triumph. 

Time to hit Glacier Country!

The shadows were getting long by the time I got to Franz Joseph Glacier. Furiously, I checked camera batteries, threw on a beanie and jacket and hit the track. By the time I had walked for 30 minutes, a chill had set in and so did common sense. There was no way I was going to get close enough for a great photo without darkness & fog falling. My thoughts returned to those who take silly risks in our great outdoors and never make it home. I found a clearing and zoomed in as best I could. Not a great image but safety had to prevail. I headed back down the track followed by Fantails who feasted on the bugs I’d dislodged with my boots. Sitting in the car with the heater blasting, my heart rate returned to normal. It wasn’t fear that set in, it was empathy. Empathy for the ignorant. Everyone, even the experienced, must be 100% prepared when entering our forest walks. 

15 mins north of Hari Hari is Lake Ianthe. It's sheltered, majestic and offers overnight camping for the weary traveller. Toilet facilities and clean water are on hand. Camping is on a 'first come, first served'basis. It was packed. 

The little town of Ross is a ‘blink and you’ll miss it’ place. Whatever you do, don’t blink! Ross is nurturing its roots and now punches way above its weight as a place to explore. Check out the Empire Hotel’s collection of historic memorabilia and The Heritage Museum. Opposite the museum is the Water Race Walk. There’s a quirky café and a great seaside camping spot at Totara Bridge Station. The old open cast gold mine is now a lake where you can try your luck at holing a golf ball on a floating pontoon. Settled in 1865, Ross revels in its gold mining history and happily lends itself to guests.

The Maori name for the South Island of New Zealand is Te Waipounamu. It means The Greenstone Waters, and the West Coast has an abundance of it. Traditionally used to fashion tools and weapons by local Maori, pounamu (jade) is also valued as Taonga (treasure).

All along the West Coast you can find carved taonga in gift shops and galleries. Traditionally, a pounamu pendant must be gifted. In keeping with Maori custom, a gift of pounamu must also be blessed. Hokitika is home to many master pounamu carvers who shape, polish and offer their art for sale. Different shapes have different cultural significance. Be sure to know the story behind the piece that you choose.

Sunsets in Hokitika are utterly sublime. The local beaches offer up remnants of driftwood that have been well weathered into bizarre shapes on their journey to the sea. Washed down from the forest on raging rivers, the ocean returns these natural works of art to the foreshore. Makeshift driftwood sculptures adorn Hokitika Beach ready for some awesome sunset photography.  

The Westcoast Treetop Walk just south of Hokitika offers sublime views to the Southern Alps and Lake Mahinapua while traversing a series of high walkways. Totally accessible for folk of all abilities, you can stroll among the treetops and get a birds eye experience of the magnificent rainforest. A 45 metre high lookout tower is the piece-de-resistance. Info boards along the walk introduce guests to New Zealand's native flora and fauna. It's a peaceful yet exciting excursion and the indoor/outdoor cafe serves excellent meals and refreshments.  

The West Coast Wilderness Trail is fast becoming a hit with cyclists. Meandering through beautiful beech forests, wild coastlines and natural waterways the tour is one of amazing beauty. West Coast Scenic Waterways in Hokitika offer excellent self-contained accommodation on the Mahinapua Waterways and also operate a scenic boat tour with magnificent views. Use one of their bikes and ride a section of the trail, or grab a kayak and freely explore the waterway.

Hokitika has excellent amenities, supermarkets, gas stations and an eclectic mix of galleries and shops. It’s a little town with loads of charm. Stay a while and relax. The restaurants are great and there’s a good range of accommodation to suit differing tastes and budgets.

The final destination on my rediscovery tour was Greymouth. It’s steeped in logging and mining history and has seen its fair share of heartache. The loss of life during two mining disasters has affected local families and the community deeply. Pike River & the Brunner Mine disasters are forever etched in West Coast history. There is now a visitor centre at the Brunner Mine site that offers insights into West Coast mining history. It’s a beautiful place to visit with several info boards and historical walks.

A new Great Walk is planned for the Pike River site as memoriam to those lost.  The track is expected to be open to the public in 2019.

[A new Great Walk through the spectacular limestone landscapes and luxuriant forests of Paparoa National Park will be a memorial to the 29 men who died as a result of the Pike River Mine disaster on 19 November 2010. The Pike 29 Memorial Track is to be New Zealand’s 10th Great Walk. It was chosen by the families of the Pike River men as a memorial that will bring lasting benefit to the West Coast region. The Government has approved the new Great Walk and information centre put forward by the families.] Source; DOC NZ

The TranzAlpine Train Journey, deemed one of the best scenic rail journeys in the world, operates between Christchurch and Greymouth. It traverses the Southern Alps and provides outstanding views of wild landscapes and meandering rivers. The trip takes just over five hours.

Greymouth is an ‘easy to walk’ town and there is lots to see. Huge pounamu boulders can be found on street corners. The town is currently undergoing a refurbishment of the retail district. The new mall is looking spik and span and ready to be enjoyed.

 Shantytown is a must see  for all. It's like travelling back in time with a fully restored mining village and it's own steam train to take you for a ride. Riddled with history you'll get a real taste of what life was like for those who came here during the gold rush. 

I’m so proud of this amazing place. Though the journey of rediscovery was long, it’s been fantastic to observe the improvements we have made in accommodating our guests. When you have a long way to travel, it’s hard choosing where to stop and what to see. Everything is just too beautiful to miss, so my advice is to be patient.

Allow yourself the time to truly discover every waterfall, curious bird and unruly landscape.

Spend time with other travellers and listen to the stories of our locals. Step back into the well-worn boots of our pioneers and appreciate this rugged, spectacular land at the bottom of the world. You may return one day, you may not, but one thing is for sure, this special place will leave you totally spellbound.   

We Are Southproud.

[The Mountain Safety Council of New Zealand are an excellent resource for those wishing to explore our wilderness and we highly recommend that you take heed of their advice prior to entering any of our National Parks. New Zealand’s weather is fickle and conditions can change in the blink of an eye. You must be completely prepared when heading out on any excursion into the bush. The New Zealand Department of Conservation manages our parks and Great Walks. Check their website for warnings prior to starting your trip.]