Tales of Gold | Lawrence | New Zealand

In 1861, Gabriel Read discovered gold in the aptly named, ‘Gabriel’s Gully’ and triggered the birth of the Otago Goldrush. Thus, the little town of Lawrence, Otago, was born!

I couldn’t count on all my fingers and toes how many times I have zipped through Lawrence travelling back and forth from Alexandra to Dunedin. Other than the usual time constraints of busy life, there’s been no real excuse not to stop, discover and learn.

Whether you’re travelling from Dunedin or Central Otago, Lawrence just pops into view. It’s a village really, a village that packs a huge historical punch!

Gabriel Read was a Tasmanian geologist. Prior to entering New Zealand he’d already prospected in Victoria, Australia and the goldfields of California.  The whisper was that gold had been found in the Mataura River. The very thought of how ‘word spread’ in the mid 1800’s baffles me, especially now as we are so heavily ensconced in modern technology. Most likely by mail and passing traders.  He arrived in Port Chalmers in February, 1861.

On 20 May 1861, Gabriel Read discovered gold near the banks of the Tuapeka River and the rest, as they say, is history.

Most of the buildings in Lawrence are relics from the rush. Lawrence was home to more than ten thousand residents riding off the back of Gabriel’s treasured discovery and the town utterly thrived. Evidence of affluence remain in hilltop homesteads with huge verandas and meticulously arranged rock walls. Charming miners’ cottages, some restored, some derelict, stand behind spiky iron gates and thorny rose hedges. Impressive churches tower above the town like powerful landlords watching their tenants toil. The old Courthouse and ramshackle Catholic St Patricks Church are accessible via a reasonably steep track just off the main street. The old Anglican Church stands behind a large, unkempt hedge. Its bell tower has a Heritage New Zealand Historic Place Category 2 listing. The church was recently sold to some folk from Auckland who want to turn it into a holiday home.

Dotted along the Main Street, historical buildings blend with the new. Café’s, galleries, gift shops, hotels and modern-day prospectors ply their wares from antiquated stone buildings. The gas station and convenience stores ensure this trip back in time isn’t too uncomfortable for those who need their latte’s, panini’s and other comfort items.  While Lawrence appears to be a quaint little place it’s very easy to while away several hours inspecting all on offer.

The Lawrence Information Centre & Tuapeka Goldfields Museum is deceptive in appearance. Entering the foyer, you’d be mistaken to think this is a small-town facility for brochure browsers. The place is an absolute Tardis, full of unusual, interesting objects and memorabilia.  Entry is free but we did drop a small gift into the donation box. The township of Lawrence has free Wi-Fi too. So easy to upload all your holiday snaps, check your emails and skype your loved ones.

Further up the street we entered Gabriel’s Gully. The Stamper Battery that greets you is testament to the history here.  Walk the track to Gabriel’s monument and take in the picturesque views of the township. There’s also free overnight parking for self-contained campervans in Gabriel’s Gully.  

The Clutha Gold Trail passes through Lawrence and is very popular with cyclists. There is a two-day stage from Lake Roxburgh Dam to Lawrence that will take you through unique heritage sites including gold mining, Maori Moa hunting, and Chinese mining sites.  The trails are in excellent condition and well-marked.

There is plenty of parking in Lawrence, lots of public seating and conveniences. On the outskirts of town opposite the Police Station there’s parking for campervans, large vehicles and dump station.

Lawrence is an endearing wee place. If you take the time to truly immerse yourself in everything that happened here Lawrence is a really enriching experience.

From the imposing Stamper Battery to the old trails of gold, Gabriel Read’s legacy is omnipotent.