TranzAlpine | Two Worlds – One JourneyGuest post by Jennifer Branje | Southproud.co.nz

Internationally recognised as one of the worlds best rail excursions, the TranzAlpine offers a unique and diverse journey of discovery. Travel over flat arid plains, through towering mountains, to a world of remarkable sub-tropical rainforests.

Separated by the spectacular Southern Alps, the East and West of New Zealand’s South Island are as different as night & day.

Canterbury rises from the Pacific Ocean to the foothills of the Great Divide on a gentle incline giving no hint of what lies on the other side. This Great Journey of New Zealand affords its passengers an astounding and unique scenic voyage through the Alps, to a world of outstanding natural beauty.

In 1863, at the request of Chief Surveyor Thomas Cass, Arthur Dobson and his brothers set out to map a route from East to West with the help of local Maori Chief, Tarapuhi. One year later, a road was constructed enabling gold and goods to be transported through Arthurs Pass. Rail soon followed. The Otira Tunnel was completed 1918 and opened in 1923.

While history tells us those who originally settled on the West Coast only stayed because they were too poor to leave, the West Coast now invites intrepid guests to experience a range of outdoor activities, cycle trails, wild coastlines and vast natural heritage.

We boarded the TranzAlpine at Rolleston, just south of Christchurch and were joined by a group of excited international travellers. One young lady came from Suriname, a tiny country in South America with half the land mass of New Zealand. I’m bemused knowing her travel story will be relayed in a country I never knew existed.
With bags stowed away, we left early morning commuters behind in a world of mundanity and headed for the hills on our epic adventure.

As we travelled through flat fields of green, magnificent views of the Southern Alps drew shutterbugs to the outdoor carriage. The difficulty of taking a well-focussed photograph from a moving vestibule was no deterrent. Delightfully, the virtue of politeness was evident as people from all over the world shared this space and afforded each the courtesy of capturing their memories. Strangers shared warm smiles as they swayed to the rhythm of the rocking train, chatting excitedly. Others enjoyed the comfort of their seats with unimpeded views from huge picture windows.
We ventured into the dining car for coffee. Well stocked with plenty of fresh sandwiches, muffins, cakes, pies and fresh fruit, this little café on wheels adds to the ambience of the trip. A good range of local wines and ales is also available including mulled wine during the winter months.

Leaving the patchwork plains of Canterbury behind, we faced what seemed to be an impenetrable wall of mountains. Entering the Waimakariri River Gorge, glimpses of hard canyon walls and the river below brought a realisation that our ascent had begun. Strong diesel engines pulled us through several tunnels and over grand viaducts to the Craigieburn plateau. Views of snow-capped Mount Binser were fabulous. We soon crossed the gushing Waimakariri River, another spectacular photo op for all.

The air temperature was dropping rapidly as snow clouds lowered. I had been watching the weather forecast for weeks, hoping for a true winter excursion. Mother Nature didn’t disappoint. Previous days of heavy rain brought impromptu waterfalls tumbling down misty hills. We pulled in to Arthurs Pass for a brief stop. Many alight here to stay and enjoy the rugged landscapes and fantastic walks. The short, sharp squeal of the guard’s whistle alerted continuing passengers to board and we were off again.
At Otira Station, KiwiRail staff prepared the train for its subterranean passage under the alpine range. The outdoor carriage was closed off and passengers were asked to remain seated while in the tunnel. This is a perfect time to plug into the on-board commentary. The history of this 8.5-kilometre tunnel is relayed in a rich and interesting story.

Anyone who remembers the order “Beam me up Scotty” will be familiar with the concept of teleportation. It’s a sci-fi term used to describe travelling from one world to another in the blink of an eye. Moving through the Otira Tunnel may not be instantaneous, but the transition into another world is remarkable.

Emerging from the Otira Tunnel into West Coast Wilderness, an ethereal mist hangs over the ranges. Maori legend relays the story of Hine kohu (The Mist Maid) greeting Papatūānuku (Earth Mother) and Ranginui (Sky Father). The two were locked in such a tight embrace that no light could come between them. Forced apart by their children, Papatūānuku & Ranginui were separated to allow light to enter the world.

Our journey continues through untouched natural wetlands and bush filled with native birds. Giant Kahikatea trees reach for the sky from their saturated roots. Lake Brunner looms like a brilliant silver coin.
Enjoying a short stop at Moana on the lake edge, the observation carriage lures passengers back to capture the outstanding scenery on offer.
The last few miles into Greymouth follows the Grey River and passes the Brunner Mine Site walk where a large suspension bridge spans the river. There is a lot of history here and it’s a spot well worth exploring if you are staying a while.
We arrive at Greymouth Station to enjoy an hour of liberty before our return to Christchurch. 

The West Coast district has relied heavily on extractive industries. Logging, gold & coal mining have supported West Coast families for over 100 years. As a result, there is an abundance of historic sites and exhibits to see. Now recognised for its fantastic natural landscapes and huge range of wilderness tours and outdoor activities, the West Coast is revelling in a new-found identity as a tourism destination.

Warm, comfortable and informative, the TranzAlpine exposes a diversity of landscapes in one unique excursion. No matter what season you choose go, be sure to put this Great Journey of New Zealand on your 'to do' list. 

This article is dedicated to our new friend Fred, who had the misfortune of suffering a severe cardiac event on our return journey. Fred and his family acknowledge that the availability of an on board defibrillator and the quick and effective administration of CPR by the TranzAlpine Team saved his life.  As Fred has no recollection of his journey, we hope this article helps him to remember. Kia kaha Matua, we wish you a speedy recovery.